What to wear to work now: The shifting codes of workwear

Decoding the meaning of “smart casual” isn’t the kind of thing you usually hear Evan Davis discussing on Radio 4’s PM, but when the Spectator’s Tim Shipman reported that ministers heading to an away day at Chequers were worried about the dress code, it got airtime. That same week in the US, journalists from the Wall Street Journal and Puck were interested in what the CEOs were wearing at Allen & Company’s annual Sun Valley conference (apparently it wasn’t inspiring this year).

Workwear, redefined

So, what is going on? Post-Covid and the great work-from-home experiment, the theory was that business and formalwear would never be the same: we would work from home and worry less about how we present ourselves. Our priorities — even our values — would change. But as company mandates to return to the office continue, a cohort of young people who got their first jobs during the pandemic are navigating the concept of dressing top-to-toe instead of just for Zoom, while the older generations (gen X and generation Jones, I’m talking to you) are trying to understand the new codes of the modern work wardrobe.

Navigating the complexities of workwear has always been a challenge for PRs who need to strike a balance between dressing to represent their agency, company or brand, and wearing something that feels professional and “them”. It’s no wonder WhatsApp messages ping around asking for dress code guidance before meetings and events.

Phoebe Philo, the designer who made fashion wearable for businesswomen when she led Celine between 2008 and 2017, wrote this spring about her fascination with the relationship we have with our clothes in her HTSI guest edit. For her, “the communication in, and of, clothes” is critical. We all use clothes to communicate, and whether we actively engage or choose to rebel against it, it is worth remembering that everything we wear is a statement of some sort.

Dressing with intent

Whether you are a fan of Marshall McLuhan’s “the medium is the message”, Roland Barthes’ non-verbal fashion codes, or Loughborough University professor Malcolm Barnard’s view that fashion helps us to become who we want to be, what to wear to work has become more complicated. Again.

“Post-Covid, we all still want an ease in the way we dress,” says fashion director Arabella Greenhill, “I don’t think high heels for work are coming back, but dressing for work, especially for PRs, is about looking the part and part of creating your own brand.” 

“The power dressing narrative has evolved significantly over the decades,” says Caryn Franklin, fashion and identity commentator. “In the early days, the suit was a uniform of masculine authority in the workplace. In the 1980s, women adopted masculine-coded styles — sharp suits, shoulder pads, dark colours — to assert authority in male-dominated workplaces. Career clothing then was a shield, or even armour, and definitely a statement of intent.”

The suit reconsidered

Jane Shepherdson, chair of My Wardrobe HQ and a trustee at Smartworks, the UK-wide charity that provides free interview clothing and preparation support for women, says: “So many people don’t know what is appropriate right now. Fashion has swung back and forth so many times it’s confusing. I’m not really sure what smart casual even means.”

At Smart Works, Shepherdson, who works with clients as well as acting as a trustee, says: “Virtually everyone asks me for a trouser suit. The dress was a big thing a few years ago, and I would always suggest a dress plus a jacket to smarten things up, but people are aware the dress has gone away.”

So, are things getting more formal again? “It’s about confidence,” says Shepherdson. “I love a jacket — if I’ve got an important meeting, I’ll always wear one.” In her appointments with Smart Works clients, “it’s about making them feel empowered, helping to get them into the zone,” she says. “You look at these women when they put a wide leg trouser suit on and they feel it. They have a real need, a real desire to feel different when they walk into an office environment.”

“It’s psychological for me, right from the beginning of Covid, I decided to wear ‘proper’ clothes when working from home,” says Tanya Hughes, investor and external relations lead at Cancer Research Horizons. Hughes, a former director at Talk Global, has a long track record in strategic consumer communications for fashion, beauty and FMCG brands and, more recently, Imperial College and the NHS, “and I mean the whole outfit including shoes! It makes me feel ready for the day. I think if you’re half dressed, then you’re half doing it,” she says on a Zoom call, wearing, as usual, an office-ready outfit. “I’ve changed sectors from fashion and beauty brands, where image was definitely important, to the medical and charity sectors, where it isn’t a focus, but people still need to look professional.”

“Fashion is a communication tool. It’s a decision you make to prioritise telling your story — to communicate who you are. Do you want to be seen as creative, or strategic?” asks Hughes, who suspects she was probably more corporate when she was younger.

Making space for individuality

“Today, career dressing is more fluid and inclusive. Authority is no longer tied solely to conformity or masculine aesthetics,” says Franklin. “Women (and men) need to express much more through their choices: individuality, for instance, approachability, warmth and humanity are all things we can communicate through colour, texture, softer tailoring, cultural dress or minimalist looks. What’s critical now is authenticity and context — dressing to reflect both one’s role and identity.”

Even the fashion industry is trying to work this all out. The luxury sector — on a roll since Covid, is experiencing a backlash: sales at Dior are down by 20%, with Celine dipping even more according to Puck. Reporting by Bloomberg, via the Business of Fashion, says LVMH is experiencing the worst downturn in its history, while Chanel had a 4.3% drop in revenue this year, causing it to hold price increases. That’s a big deal.

Meanwhile, new models and entrants are shaking things up below the luxury sector. Khaite, Toteme and UK favourites, Me+Em, and With Nothing Underneath offer more accessibly priced, designer-level fashion with a modern, easy-to-wear handwriting. In the mid-to-mass market, the resilient Marks & Spencer is delivering relevant clothing at a competitive price, with its fashion market share up to 10.5% for the 52 weeks to the end of March 2025, while Uniqlo has upped its connection to fashion culture with the arrival of Claire Waight Keller as creative director. Waight Keller understands how to deliver the right shape in the right colour for the season, while Uniqlo continues to produce its trademark high quality at a hugely competitive price — a perfect match. 

Rental, resale and new routines

Sarah Shapiro, the retail correspondent for Puck’s Line Sheet newsletter, has noticed a trend moving away from athleisure towards more put together looks that showcase professionalism. In the US, the rise of the rental market is also changing how women dress for the office. “People are more dressed, but not necessarily because of wanting to get more formal. It’s Rent The Runway,” explains one New York-based communications director. “For the cost of one top from Banana Republic, young women starting out can hire five completely new outfits a month — and then trade them in for another five the next. They can express themselves and look great without the cost of investing in a lot of clothes.” 

It’s not always what you wear, but how you style it

For Jane Kellock, founder and creative director of trend agency, Unique Style Platform, the key to modern dressing is in forging your own personal style. “This is about a hybrid, mixing formalwear with feminine pieces. It looks a lot cooler, but still quite smart,” she says. “If you are wearing a trainer, you can still wear something tailored, but it makes you more relevant.” 

Will suits ever come back? “Only for formal professions, like law, or big corporate businesses. Suits are making a return on the catwalks, but in real life, it is much more about formalwear x casual wear,” says Kellock, “There is no question a degree of professionalism is needed, but now it is about a mix. In most companies you would look odd wearing a complete suit head to toe. If you are wearing a blazer for example, you might match it with a softer skirt or drawstring pant,” she adds, “and you need to understand what the rules are of the company you are working in. It’s about the degree of formality now.”

A fresh take on menswear

“Formalwear for men is making a return — but not in its traditional form,” says Isaiah Isaac, menswear strategist at global trend forecaster WGSN. "Across age groups, consumers are reinterpreting tailored dressing with a more contemporary lens. Occasionwear remains important, but there’s a noticeable shift in how men are styling sartorial pieces. When it comes to office wear, younger consumers in particular are approaching it on their own terms. They’re respecting classic codes — shirts, ties, tailored elements — but styling them in unexpected ways, such as pairing them with chinos and loafers for a look that feels more Urban Outfitters than J Crew. It is a deliberate subversion of dress codes that still acknowledges corporate tradition. Even within more conservative sectors like finance, there’s been a visible upgrade in style.”

“While appearances still influence perceptions, modern work culture values are as much about confidence and competence,” says Franklin. “A notable study explored how the fit of a suit influences perceptions of its wearer. Participants viewed images of men in both well-fitting and ill-fitting suits, then rated them on traits like confidence, success and professionalism. Consistently, those in well-tailored suits were seen as more competent and authoritative, while poorly fitting suits led to negative judgements, including lower perceived status and attractiveness. The study highlights how subtle visual cues — like tailoring — can significantly shape social impressions. It underscores the psychological impact of clothing fit, especially in professional contexts where first impressions are critical.”

“And this counts for female attire too,” stresses Franklin. “It’s not about expensive tailoring — rather fit and proportion. A simple reminder is that the office generally doesn’t like extremes. Take shape: nothing too baggy or really tight. Pattern: nothing psychedelic or too vibrant. Colour: nothing too brash or hi-vis. Professional clothing is about displaying your confidence in yourself as a team player with shared values yet individual opinions, able to contribute and step up to the challenges of the day.” 

The case for keeping it simple

Perhaps this explains why minimalism — first championed by Philo at Celine and part of the design ethos of H&M’s Cos brand — is so popular. According to retail intelligence platform Edited: “As consumers seek a more pared-back aesthetic during periods of uncertainty, core neutral colours are accounting for the largest share of spring dress arrivals since 2021. The palette’s dominance on the FW25 runway further suggests the trend is going nowhere as global uncertainty persists.” And, as Arabella Greenhill points out, useful for PRs working for multiple clients who need to remain neutral, “The head of a PR agency may be wearing the brand at a fashion press event, but the worker bees who need to look smart but not distinctive will wear something more low key.” 

So in the end is this about fashion or about style? Greenhill is adamant that fashion keeps out of the workwear debate: “It’s about finding your own identity at the end of the day,” she says. “Find brands you trust and rely on them. I look back of photographs of me when I was doing the shows, and I’m wearing a smart blue shirt and jeans — it’s my uniform — but now the jeans are a barrel shape, and the shirt is a bit boxier and paired with a flat instead of a heel. The essence of what I wear is the same, but the style is updated.”

Clothes do make an impact, whether we like it or not. Jill Demling, founder of Creative Casting Agency and US Vogue’s entertainment editor for 20 years, recently ran an episode of her podcast Going Rogue talking to some of fashion’s biggest style arbiters about the first time they met Anna Wintour: “They might not remember what they said. But ask them what they wore? Every single detail.”

So, where are the lessons in all of this? The golden rule for PRs is always keep the client’s reputation in mind. Other than that there are no hard and fast rules anymore. If a capsule collection of basics takes the pressure off, make sure the silhouettes you have chosen are up to date and invest in great basics. If fashion has always been a second love, mix structured formal wear with a softer silhouette, hybrid dressing is an official thing. Finally? Unless you are a fan of heels, feel free to retire them. Every woman interviewed for this article agrees. 

Juliet Warkentin is a brand strategist and writer with a background in tech, fashion, interiors and women's wellbeing. She retired her high heels 10 years ago.

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